Field Notes

Stories

Snapshots from a life spent recording, performing and listening — from the UK to France to Australia to the lagoons of French Polynesia to the hills of Isère.

2001

French Polynesia · Early 2000s

The Pearl Ceremony at Marae Ta'ata

In the early 2000s, I was invited to Tahiti to record a unique ceremony held at Marae Ta'ata, one of the island's ancient sacred sites. Representatives of the pearl industry, local officials and members of the community gathered for an event centred around baskets filled with imperfect Tahitian pearls.

After a blessing at the marae, the pearls were carried aboard a large traditional Polynesian va'a. The canoe then headed out onto the lagoon, where the pearls were ceremonially returned to the sea in the hope that the coming seasons would bring a better harvest.

As sound engineer for the event, I was concentrating on capturing every word and every chant with a boom microphone. At one point, while the blessing was taking place, I became aware that mosquitoes were happily feasting on my legs. It turned into a real test of concentration. I could see them biting me, but with all eyes on the ceremony, I had to remain perfectly still and continue recording as if nothing was happening!

The occasion was a fascinating blend of spirituality, symbolism and tradition, and remains one of the most memorable experiences of my years in French Polynesia. More than twenty years later, I can still picture the baskets of pearls, the great va'a crossing the lagoon, and the solemn moment when the sea reclaimed what it had once given.

The Pearl Ceremony at Marae Ta'ata